UNGÜENTI: ROTTURE E RIMEDI
Cosmetics for the Female Face
"Ungüenti: Resti, rotture e rimedi" is created by Raquel Buj at Real Academia de España in Rome. It is inspired by Ovid's classic poems 'Cosmetics for the Female Face', where the author describes different recipes for beauty and skin care.
The natural elements included in these ointments recipes (petals, lupins, daffodils) serve in this project as a trigger to generate a laboratory for biomaterial experimentation that gives physicality to the poems and expand the classical concept of beauty towards less canonical and anthropocentric views.
As a result of this research, a series of garments understood as second skins that, like nature, are in continuous transformation. These become skins like ointments, when they interact with the bodies that inhabit them. Layers of protection that take us back to Antiquity to rethink, from the contemporary, the ecological complexity that surrounds us.
A fashion performance activates these second skins giving visibility to the space that Ovid ignores: the care ritual. In this natural location, dancers get dressed and undressed, change their skin with intimate movements that require some other gestures that, like the garments, are made of body and matter.
Ungüenti is a reinterpretation of Ovid's poems, an exercise of material recreation through clothing and biomaterial experimentation. A project that look at what is unwanted: the broken ones and the remains that arise from the creative processes, but that, by appreciating them through meticulous work, we begin to remedy the ills that afflict a damaged ecology.
THE COLLECTION
UNGÜENTI I
Garment and face accessory created manually
with natural latex and lupines applications.
UNGÜENTI II
Garment created with tulle fabric manually
manipulated, several bioplastic applications
(dried flowers, barley, lentils, lupines, agar, bee wax...).
UNGÜENTI III
Garment created with gelatine bioplastic
structure, tule fabric draped manually and
bioplastic finish.
UNGÜENTI VI
Garment created with tulle fabric,
bioresin, bioplastic manual
applications with germinated lentils.
UNGÜENTI V
Garment created with kombucha
biomaterial. bioplastic and fabrics
over unguentarium molds.
UNGÜENTI VI
Garment created with tulle fabric, bioplastic manual applications of daffodils.
UNGÜENTI VII
Garment created with recycled organza manipulated manually.
UNGÜENTI VIII
Garment created with natural latex, broken plaster pieces from molds, dried flower petals.
UNGÜENTI IX
Garment created with bioplastic mixed with natural wax and colofonian resin, 3d printing manually.
UNGÜENTI X
Garment created with bioplastics mixed with rose petals (agar, gelatine, carrageenan, potato starch, gelatine biomaterial based).
UNGÜENTI XI
Garment created with tulle fabric manipulated by hand, bioplastic applications from all the leftovers rescued from the whole project research cooking process.
UNGÜENTI XII
Garment created with natural latex and manually needles application.
UNGÜENTI XIII
Garment created with natural latex, PLA 3d printed harness and accessories, manual 3d printing.
UNGÜENTI XIV
Garment created with agar and carragen based bioplastic mixed with Amon salt and natural pigments.
UNGÜENTI XV
Garment and accesories created with natural wax and colofonian resin, 3d printting manually.
Recycled glass perfume test tubes.
UNGÜENTI XVI
Ephemeral garment created with hidrosoluble biomaterial mixed with flower petals. Activated through a fashion performance at Real Academia de España, Roma.
PERFORMANCE AND IMAGE DETAILS
Photos taken by : Juan Borgognoni.
CREDITS :
Project by: Buj Studio ( Director Raquel Buj ) created at Real Academia de España en Roma.
Assistants: Alba Hinojosa Montenegro
Scenography structures: Sebastián Bayo
3d printting: Petra Garajová
Performance movements: Virginia Martin Mateos
Dancers-models (photos and performance): Chiara Blasio,
Alesia Perja, Lucrezia Romana Antonelli, Magherita Sacchi
and Beatrice Montini (Balleto di Roma y Estudios Mvula
Sungani - MSPD), Agustina Salvatori (photos)
Original Music: Hugo Gómez-Chao Porta
Video artist: Abel Jaramillo
MUA: María Lorain
Hair: María Lorain
Photos : Juan Borgognoni (Photgrapher), Agustina Salvatori (Photo assistant)